Recent content by Kizzy Klozenberg

I slow down, check the load and straps, and avoid driving through severe weather when possible.

Credit score and down payment matter the most.

I'm looking for better traction on muddy job sites. Can I use snow chains or aggressive tread tires, or could that damage the drive motors? Also, should both drive wheels spin in mud, or is it normal for only one to spin?

Check the hydraulics, vibration system, and drum bearings first. Most issues are caused by low hydraulic pressure or worn parts.

Hitachi EX120-5 excavator runs fine at idle, but after traveling about 30 meters or using the boom, the engine struggles and stalls. Someone suggested the stepping motor could be the issue. Does it need calibration after replacement, or could this be something else? Has anyone experienced this...

I recently purchased 7FB710 and 7FB711 from Kiewit in Dallas, Texas, and I'm currently shipping them to Australia. I'm interested in learning more about their history, maintenance, and previous work. I'd appreciate any information or experiences you can share.

I'm thinking about buying a 2005 Cat 325C zero-tail-swing excavator and was wondering how difficult they are to service. Is the engine compartment too cramped, or is routine maintenance still fairly straightforward? I'd appreciate any real-world experiences from owners or mechanics.

I've heard good things about their attachments for the price. I'd just check the condition closely and make sure there are no cracks or excessive wear before bidding.

I have a 1970s Case 350 dozer with a rebuilt engine that has very low hours. The starter turns the engine over very slowly, even after cleaning all the electrical connections and trying a 200-amp battery charger directly on the starter. I'm thinking about replacing it with a gear reduction...

I'm having a hydraulic issue with my Kobelco SK85. The machine bogs down on all hydraulic functions, and when I raise the boom, the dipper slowly creeps out at the same time. If I fully extend the arm, the engine will almost stall. The pumps aren't making any unusual noise, and I've already...

I haven't worked on a Pipeliner myself, but I'd start by comparing part numbers if you can find manuals for both years. Sometimes later machines share major components, but there can be differences in gear ratios, shafts, or mounting points that affect interchangeability.

My 2001 Volvo EC240LC started up fine this morning, but the final drive quit working and the bucket curl became extremely slow in both directions. The track will move normally only when I press the auxiliary pedal while tracking. Any ideas on what could cause both issues at once?

That's pretty much how I look at it too. Once repair bills and downtime start becoming less predictable, I usually start thinking about selling while the machine still has decent resale value instead of waiting for a major failure.

I'd also check the hour meter against the machine's overall condition.. excessive wear on controls, drums, or joints can sometimes tell a different story than the numbers.

You may be able to replace the seal without removing the full timing cover, depending on the exact pump setup. A lot of times the pump can be pulled far enough to change the O-ring or gasket, but timing marks and cleanliness are really important. Definitely worth checking the service manual...